Is Matcha destined for greener pastures or is it simply becoming a drop in the ocean of western consumerism?
Has the incorporation of matcha into Western cuisine diluted its magic?
It’s a vibrant, green powder that’s taken the West by storm and garnered a cult-like following across the UK. It’s exploded into popular culture with entire channels, Instagram pages and subreddits dedicated to its zen properties and earthy goodness. It even has an entire cafe in London serving up delectable wonders doused in all things...matcha! That’s right - unless you’ve been living under a rock, the term ‘matcha’ probably rings a lot of bells. A rich zesty green, matcha is extracted from green tea leaves to form a finely ground powder and unlike it’s loose-leaf counterpart it packs a punch. Housing up to three times more antioxidants per cup, it’s far more concentrated than green tea, giving it a more intense flavour - which is part of the reason it’s soared to popularity. While it’s been a staple of the Japanese diet for centuries it’s only recently that its popularity has shot up in the West. The past five years have seen the UK and USA take on the matcha trend with major chains introducing the finely ground powder in the form of lattes, cakes and waffles. The emergence of matcha in the West, specifically in the digital age, has not only led to westernised takes on matcha recipes but it’s spotlighted some of the more authentic uses of the powder. This has led to the creation of Japanese patisseries and matcha bars (two of the most popular being Kova and Matcha&Beyond) as well bringing previously lesser known spots to the limelight. This global migration of matcha has seemingly gone beyond just being a trend, as it is now so steeped in popular culture that it looks set to stay. This curious green powder offers up something very compelling in a world where Instagram and pop-culture meet: it’s a colourful link to Japan that’s extremely versatile and packed with health benefits - and it always makes for a great photo.
While it may be the trendiest tea to date, it hasn’t always been this way. Matcha started out with humble beginnings and a monk named Myōan Eisai; reportedly one of the first men to bring the idea of powdered matcha to Japan. Green tea had been popular in the country for centuries, but it had always remained unpressed until Eisai’s trip to China. It was in China’s monasteries that he was introduced to a new way of enjoying green tea, influenced largely by Zen Buddhist methods of tea preparation. When he returned home he brought with him a new process for preparing tea; grinding green tea leaves into powder. The very first green tea seeds that he brought back were planted on the temple grounds of Kyoto and it was from these seeds that matcha powder paved the way for Japanese tea culture. From that point on the powder went on to be used in religious ceremonies and became a powerful symbol of wealth and luxury. A favourite amongst Japanese monks, matcha was hailed as a potent drink to enhance mental clarity for long mediation sessions. As centuries progressed, matcha’s influence started to weave in with Japan’s military might and soon Samurai warriors were given the drink as a pre-battle elixir. Revered as a tonic that could physically and mentally prepare warriors for battle, the Samurai developed their own art of tea preparation called wabi. The wabi ceremony put matcha at the centre of pre-battle meditation and it was from this that the Japanese tea ceremony as we know it was born. Today, matcha remains a popular and staple food source in Japan with an abundance of cafes and restaurants dedicated solely to the powder. Traditional drinks and dishes that contain matcha include Kakigori (a shaved ice dessert), lattes, mochi (rice cakes) as well as Uscha and Koicha tea. Not all matcha is created equal though, the powder is regularly graded into two categories: ceremonial and culinary. Ceremonial grade matcha is reserved for the pricier restaurants and special occasions while culinary grade matcha can be found in regular cafes and products. Matcha’s influence in Japan goes further than the culinary world; it is embedded within the country’s culture and identity. Matcha tea ceremonies that date back to 1192 remain a part of Japanese life and are practiced on a regular basis. Traditional ceremonies include the preparation and presentation of matcha alongside a serving of sweets to balance out its slightly bitter taste. Highly respected across Japan, these ceremonies represent purity and tranquillity and are a link to the country’s Samurai past. The evolution of matcha in Japan has seen the powder go from being a delicacy for the privileged to a staple for the masses and now (in our digital age) it’s been made popular in the West.
Trends seem to come and go in the West, but ever since matcha made its debut its popularity has continued. How and when the matcha boom started is up for debate but it’s likely that social media first propelled the powder to stardom in the UK and USA. The wellness industry is big in the West and this, combined with the demand for ‘instagrammable’ food, was the ideal basis on which matcha’s popularity could flourish. Colourful and “new” matcha products were marketed as quirky, whimsical and healthy – leading to an array of cafes created to give a taste of Japanese mystique to the world. Much of the eateries created have been designed with lush, colourful interiors and by coupling matcha with such settings it has earned its place as one of the world’s most social media friendly products. While traditional Japanese patisseries have sprung up (the most popular being Kova and Tombo) it’s main integration into the West has been with Western foods rather than authentic dishes and drinks from Japan. Chains like Pret, Starbucks and Dunkin’ Donuts serve up the powder in the form of frappes, milkshakes and lattes while other matcha-focused cafes use it to season cakes, pancakes and burgers. This westernisation of a Japanese classic has allowed matcha to be enjoyed in new ways and while it has earned a large following, not many people actually know about its spiritual and historical importance. matcha seems to be more renowned for its vibrant green hue and superfood status than its Japanese roots.
Which makes you wonder - has this migration come at a price? Has the incorporation of matcha into Western foods diluted its magic? It’s an interesting question to consider, especially since some believe that chains like Starbucks and Pret are serving watered down and overly sweet versions of the tea. Some argue that matcha’s uniqueness might be getting lost to the sugary Western world of fast food and chain cafes, stripped of its Japanese roots. There is cause for concern that the West’s focus on matcha is too closely tied to media-influenced trends, its rich backstory and tea ceremony all but forgotten. Still – we have to remember that matcha’s western evolution isn’t so black and white. After all, it’s this global migration that has led to the recognition and praise of this special powder, as well as a surge in sales for Japanese-owned cafes and suppliers across the world. The West have reimagined matcha and repurposed it for a different kind of crowd; one that loves the latest trends and craves something unique and healthy. And maybe…this is a good thing. It’s what makes different cultures so unique. The idea that the world can catch onto something special like matcha and modify it in unique ways, is not always an idea to immediately dismiss - matcha will always have its special roots and links to the past in ways that other countries won’t always fully understand. Just like every country has its own cuisines and special traditions, matcha’s place in the Japanese tea ceremony will always remain a link to its past. We just have to take a look back at its history to truly appreciate it. It's not about who’s doing it right or wrong, but about the time we take to understand a country’s cuisine. There is a kind of unity to this sharing of cultures and foods and I think the West’s reimagining of matcha is their way of admiring a Japanese staple. What I’d like to see is a greater curiosity and understanding behind global food trends. Let’s take a moment to look past the Instagram-worthiness of a matcha latte and delve into its history. Let’s look at its inception in Japan; a history spanning decades filled with samurai warriors, monks, and spiritual tea ceremonies. This is what makes matcha so special and by delving into its colourful backstory maybe we will enjoy it all the more.
About the Author
South African at heart but in love with the English Language, Carolyn is working on building a portfolio as a successful freelance content writer.