In spite of the glamour surrounding Italian cooking, which has propelled it to the status of perhaps the world’s most beloved gastronomic genre, not every classic from the Apennine Peninsula has the gleam of international appeal, and few ingredients embody this more than tripe. In the spirit of cucina povera, that is to say the cooking of the poor, every last scrap of the animal has the potential to become a meal – indeed, the times of hardship in Italy’s past have created a national fondness for offal.

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